The process of commissioning a bespoke suit is distinctly different from ordering something ‘made to measure,’ both in its storied tradition and the craftsmanship of its execution. Where the template of a made to measure piece is simply adapted to your body’s size, a bespoke suit – from the initial stages of consultation to the final fittings – is both designed and created with not only your size and proportions in mind, but equally the practicalities of your lifestyle. The garments are quite literally built through a series of in-person consultations, and thus the final piece is hand tailored to suit you, and your requirements, impeccably.
Each suit that I create is entirely constructed by hand – not only in the final silken handwork, but in everything from the buttonholes to its temporary basting stitches. This means that every element of the suit can be deconstructed, which not only allows for minute adjustments during the fitting process, but equally for precise alteration if your body changes. The hand-padded horsehair chest canvas and lapels creates shape, symmetry and comfort, and each of the pieces hold their form and their line without constant pressing. This is the way that suits have been made over centuries, and which defines a traditional Savile Row suit: there is a flexibility and strength to the seams when they are sewn by hand that machine work simply doesn’t offer, and an overall precision and impact unparalleled by alternate methods.
Where there are clear stylistic preferences that come into play when commissioning a bespoke suit – colour, finish, texture – equally, the cloth of a garment plays into its overall impact and practicality. A refined yarn will give more drape to an Italian style suit; a more stable cloth will achieve a sharper, more traditionally British silhouette. A lightweight wool will suit warmer climes; a more lustrous alternative befits conventional eveningwear. So, the process of choosing a cloth is one that can feel alienatingly complex – and it is my responsibility, through a series of conversations, to demystify the options, and to help you choose the perfect fabric for your perfect suit.
To construct your first suit will require between three and five fittings; any subsequent commissions will take far less, depending on how your body shape may have changed in the interim. The first fitting will centre around balancing your basic proportions according to your posture; further fittings determine how the suit will fit the breadth of the chest, the length of the legs, the movement of the arms. As the suit is constructed, different elements of fit are highlighted – and this way of shaping a garment ensures that each and every element is precisely tailored to suit your body.
Where each Savile Row tailor has a particular house style, what I offer is the freedom for you to choose whatever style suits your aesthetic and practical requirements. Whether you prefer a sharper silhouette or a wider lapel, a particular pocket detail or trouser fastening, the beauty of bespoke is that tradition can either be adhered to, or adjusted to your personal preference. The process of determining the style of the suit is a collaborative one; I will suggest options in accordance with your needs and shape, but the final decision is yours.
Having trained under Andrew Ramroop OBE at the Savile Row Academy, where I learned the formative skills required of a Savile Row tailor, I want to retain the traditions of the trade – those which have established Savile Row as the renowned epicenter of the tailoring world – while updating their execution. My process is definitively focused on you, the customer: on your stylistic preferences, on suiting your lifestyle, and by offering in-house or in-office fittings. The craftsmanship required to build the perfect suit is rooted in history, but this does not mean that the process of commissioning one needs to be staid or antiquated: simply that we can build on centuries of tradition to suit your every contemporary need.
Prices for a bespoke suit, including all consultations, start at £3,000.